Paragliding in Pokara, Nepal February, 2015
I have heard that Nepal is one of the top 5 places in the world to Paraglide. Each morning as I sat on the flat roof of my hotel eating breakfast, I saw up to 49 paragliders circling a nearby peak (about 3,000 ft. above sea level, and probably about 1 mile higher that I was sitting).
So, for about $85 for a 20-30 minute flight, or $115 for a 40-60 minute flight, + $20 for a video and photos, I signed up. In Nepal, piloting a paraglider is a good job. The pilots get to do what they love, and they make about $150 per week, $500-$600 per month. I requested the longer flight, and they asked me to pay at the end, because it depended on the weather as to how long the paragliding would last.
Paragliding depends on heat thermals. The sunshine heats up the air, hot air rises in columns, and the chute rises higher. It also glides down at 3 feet per second, so the goal is for the pilot to watch the gliding birds to find the thermals, and continue to go up, up, up. The pilot also has an instrument that beeps when it is in warmer air, the faster the beeps, the better the thermal. I could hear the beeping, but did not see the small instrument attached to the pilot.
Once I filled out the paperwork (next of kin information and weight – I was honest), about 12 passengers piled into a van with the pilots, and we drove up the mountain to the takeoff site.
I was assigned a senior Romanian pilot named Toni. In the winter he comes to Nepal to instruct paragliding and to take tourists on a tandem flights. In the summer, he has a paragliding business in Romania. Toni once flew across Romania from north to south and was airborne for 6 hours 45 minutes. Toni has been flying for 10 years, so I felt pretty comfortable flying with him.
Ok, let’s be real and I will rephrase that. I felt as comfortable as one could feel, knowing that I was going to run off a cliff with a stranger attached to my waist, and hope that a large piece of fabric was in good operating order.
The chute was interesting to see up close. At the top front, it actually has a sort of baffling for the air to pass through.
The harness wrapped around my waist and legs like the outline of a diaper made of heavy-duty straps, and something square bumped against my bum with each step as I walked across the grassy and rocky takeoff field. I wasn’t sure how this contraption would fit on my body once I was airborne, but figured it would all make sense soon.
While I was walking to the takeoff area, my arms carried and held the straps near my chest, because the harness dangled around my knees and it was difficult to walk with everything banging against me. I felt like a teenage boy with the baggy pants around his knees, holding his pants up so he could walk without tripping.
My heart beat faster as Toni clipped himself to me, and clipped the chute to us, and he told me that when he counted to 3 that I should start running. My intellect asked a bunch of questions. Since I was in front and was shorter than him so ran with smaller strides, would he step on me and we would both fall down? What if we ran out of field to run in and reached the cliff? What if I twisted my ankle on the rocky slope? How fast was he going to count? Was it going to be 1…2…3… then run, or 1,2,3 start running? So I replied “ok”. I figured that he had done this long enough that I should trust him. If I sprained an ankle, than that was a problem I would worry about when it was time to land.
Note: I am practicing living the in the moment. Most of the things we worry about don’t come to pass anyway, and this situation was no different.
Toni said we were going to wait for the wind. After 10 or 15 seconds I heard his a beeping from the wind measuring instrument, a felt a breeze coming from behind, and he said “get ready…1..2..3” .
I started running. At first we ran about 5 feet. That must have been when the chute lifted off the ground, just like when starting to fly a kite. The chute lifted and pulled me back into a stationary position, and Toni said keep running. My feet ran and ran, we pulled the chute with us and all of a sudden the chute lifted us both off the ground, and my feet kept cycling until we passed over the cliff and were soaring like a bird.
My heart was still beating fast, but not because I was afraid, as much as because it was so spectacular. The wind rushing by was noisy in my ears, like riding in a car with the windows down, and the view was like looking out of a low flying plane, except that we had nothing around us. We were just surrounded by the air, and the outdoors, and the whole world.
Then my brain caught up and reminded me that I was in the air, sitting on a cushion (ahhh, so that is what the thing was that kept bumping into my behind), and holding on to nothing but a couple of mesh straps. It felt like being on a swing, dangling from heaven.
The scenery was beautiful. I could see terraces of rice and fields built into the mountains, which I did not previously realize were there. As we sank lower, I could see the homes,yards, and even the clothes hanging to dry in the sun on clotheslines.
The trees got closer and closer to our bodies and as comfortable as they looked to land on, my brain reminded me of how hard the branches were and the scratchy twigs that would cause really bad damage to a human body that dared to get too close. Then we were going up, up, up again as Toni steered right and we circled, rising in the column of warm air. His meter beeped faster, and my legs felt warmer as we rose up in a thermal.
Being with so many other flyers, my biggest fear now was that we would crash into someone else. It seemed Toni’s concern as well, as he called out to a beginner who was lower than us to “look above, look above”.
We continued to rise very, very high. Up and Up we went, until we were higher than everyone else. Even the large birds, were lower than us. We were higher than anything I could see in the sky. We were specks in the sky. I couldn’t believe we were so high, and my heart beat faster again.
Funny how the body reacts. My brain knew it didn’t matter how high we were, if we fell, it would be certain death, but the higher above the mountain I got, the more tightly I held the straps.
Eventually, I was able to let go of the straps for a few seconds, but the sensation was like the nightmares I had as a child, riding an amusement ride where the door opened, and I plummeted through the air until I woke up with adrenaline rushing through my body. So, I continued to tightly hang on to the straps while enjoying the sensation of freedom. I felt comforted as we descended when I could feel the pilot’s leg muscles moving as he steered the chute to the right or left while catching another thermal and we rose higher and higher again.
Toni looked for the large birds who rarely flapped their wings and rode the thermals. The birds that flew right past us were Egyptian Vultures and had a wingspan of about as long as my arms. They are scavengers and cannot waste their energy flapping their wings, so they soar on thermals until they find something to eat. The vultures did not seem to mind all of us flying with them, and it was a thrill to see them fly toward us and pass us by, like we were just another colorful bird just soaring along with them.
Once my time was up, we headed toward the lakeside toward one of the landing areas. Toni had told the pick up van the location he planned to land, but commented that he hoped they were paying attention to his particular chute because we were going to the other, further away landing spot and he did not want us to have to take a cab back.
I could see the grassy area next to the lake where the paragliders landed, as well as some cows, water buffalo and horses grazing nearby. The ground where people landed was pretty flat and the grass was really short, so the animals were nearby, but out-of-the-way.
As we approached the landing site, Toni told me shake out my feet, shake my legs to get them ready for the landing, after all I had been just sitting for the last half hour, enjoying the scenery, and needed to prepare to stand up again. He told me bend my legs and keep my feet up, and to only put them down when he told me to.
He asked if I would like to do some acrobatics on the way down, so of course I said yes. When else would I ever have the chance again? He asked me to tell him if I started to not feel good, or dizzy to let him know right away. I promised I would not vomit on him.
He turned us faster and faster, first tilting to one side with our legs hanging out, then turning us the other way. I could feel the G-force on my stomach and the centrifugal forces spinning us. It was fun for a short time, and we descended quickly, much faster than the 3 feet per second while just gliding.
The ground approached – FAST, I pulled up my feet and again trusted (and hoped) that Toni knew what he was doing. He feet touched the ground, he told me to stand up, and we landed while running a few steps. He quickly unbuckled my straps, we moved to the side and he packed up the chute for the next passenger.
All in all, it was exhilarating, but not such an adrenaline rush as I expected. Surprisingly, my arms were stiff and tired more than anything else because they were hanging on so tight. I would definitely do it again and probably will at the next opportunity.